Panama days,10, 11, 12.
We arranged with Julian to pick us up at 9.30 am. to take the rental car back. As we got up at 6 am. we managed to download the pictures that we had taken onto the computer and then put on disc. At 9.30 am we went to take the car back and Julian followed. From there Julian took us to the Casco Antiguo where we spent about 1 hour walking around and having a drink in a really lovely old fashioned bar. Had a beer and awater there then walked over to the square to meet Julian. Some lovely builings and lots of souvenir shops and stalls at good prices, but need to shop around.
We then went to the Miraflores locks. It cost 5 dollars each for admission. We went to the forst floor where there was a balcony overlooking the canal locks. we saw some large cargo ships passing through from the Pacific side. We were told that the Mornings they pass through the ships from the Pacific side and in the afternoon the ships from the Caribbean. It takes, apparently some 8 hours to pass through. Julian told us that the restaurant there was expensive but very good. So we went to the next floor and had lunch and did not worry about the expense!!! A wonderful buffet lunch with an excellent view of the locks. Very expensive! With the drinks it was a total of 58 dollars!!! Phew.
Back in the car with Julian we asked him if he could find place that sold big sized shoes as Bill needed size 12 American trekking sandals for our trip the following day. He did and took us to a factory outlet somewhere in the midst of Panama City where we managed to not only get the sandals but another canvas pair of shoes and 3 pairs of cotton socks! All was around 28 dollars. The socks were on offer at 79 U.S. Cents!! Very good too.
We went back to the hotel and paid Julian his price of just 30 dollars for taking us around most of the day. Met two guys staying at the Balboa, from California who were staying over and sat on the terrace chatting. They went to the local mini market and bought some beer and crisps back and we sat for ages and consumed same.
Up at 6 am. next day and had breakfast around 7 am. We had booked a trip to the Native village (Enebra tribe) along the Rio Chagres which was a 6 hour trip in all. Dressed in recommended shorts and hiking sandals we met the guide at 8 am. He was a native himself and it turned out that 2 people had cancelled so we had a private tour! About an hours drive over very bad roads we arrived at the Soberania National forest by the Chagres River. We got into a dugout canoe and were taken to the village about 30 minutes down river where we were welcomed by music and lots of hand shaking. There we changed into bathing gear and were taken by canoe halfway to a waterfall. The river got very shallow and we had to get out and walk along the bank for about 10 minutes. Then we crossed the river and ended up with water to the knees and wading for about 20 minutes to reach the waterfall. Definitely not a trip for frail or too elderly people! Good hiking sandals very important as you are continually negotiating large rocks and small slippery stones in the water. Also scrambling over some large rocks. On the way we saw a jesus lizard, a frog and finally Bill got his large snake photo!! It was on the other side of the river. Reached a lovely waterfall and we both jumped in for a swim with the guide. Really refreshing!
Back to the village the same way we came and changed clothes. The natives showed us how they made their mats from tree bark, the special wood they used for carving figures and also how they used and treated the palm leaves for making into strips for weaving. They explained also how they coloured each strand. Mieke spent about 20 minutes with a village lady making a small woven plate!
Lunch was then served in banana leaves which was a delicious meal of fresh Talapia freshwater fish and patacones. Loads of fresh fruit which was set out in the centre of the hut also on banana leaves. After lunch we had the chance to buy some of their handicrafts which were really lovely. We bought a figure of a toucan and a humming bird made of the black wood that we had seen. Very cheap and worth every penny when you realize the time and skill involved. The villagers then started dancing accompanied by the musicians on their native instruments. ill was dragged in by a very senior lady with very droopy and bare breasts!! What a site!!
Time to go back, so into the canoe again and then to the car. This was a very enjoyable experience and we would not have missed it !!
Stopped just before the hotel to go to the centre that was nearby to get some handicraft gifts for some friends and family. Bought some nice things including a toucan of wood seated on a branch to suspend. Back to the hotel and shower and change of clothes. Got a taxi around 8 pm. and went to the Amador causeway to have a final dinner in Panama. We went to a really nice Columbian restaurant and sat outside on the terrace. Nice cool breeze from the water and lots of families strolling around. Very nice shops and a very cosmopolitan ambience. Good service at the restaurant too. We had starters of cerviche and prawn cocktail, followed by a delicious and large filet mignon with shitake mushrooms and patacones (Bill) and Mieke had a Mixed speciality plate of all meats prepared the Columbian way with rice and accompanying dishes. It was enormous and delicious but too much to finish. No desert as we were too full!! $ beers. waters and coffees for a totle of 52 dollars! A really perfect ending to a lovely holiday.
So ends our last night. Back to the airport the next day with Julian.
We will be making a list of general costs of food and commodities and property in order to give some idea and also our own opinions regarding Panama in general. Personally we had a really wonderful time.
Panama Trip Day 3.
When we arrived in El Valle it was lunchtime so we found a nice Peruvian restaurant and had lunch there. Great meal and very cheap. We could not spend much time there but the scenery was mountainous and a nice fresh climate. Next to the restaurant we found a general gift store and bought t shirts for ourselves and our grandchildren at bargain prices. Example a lovely animal print t shirt at just 6 dollars!
We then drove back to the Panamerican highway and drove via Penonome to Chitre. It was dark when we arrived so we found the hotel Versalles which was on the side of the main road into the town. Nice room and a pool in the gardens. Very helpful staff too. Had dinner in there restaurant and as we were not hungry just had a snack which was very nice and again very cheap. Room was fine with air conditioning and comfortable bed. We went for a walk into town after eating and looked in the local supermarket where we bought a carton of fruit juice and compared prices. Also wanted to find out what was available in Panama. Good selection of National products, imported products were all US. orientated. Meat and poultry was displayed as in the older days of Spain. Prices were much lower than Spain or the EU. Looked around the main street generally but as it was late most shops were closed. They usually close around 6pm to 7pm except the smaller Chinese run supermarkets (Mini Markets). So to bed. Next morning breakfast in the restaurant, scrambled eggs, ham, toast, fruit juice and coffee for a total of 10 dollars for the two of us. The staff on the reception were very helpful and rang the Playita resort for us to see if there was a vacancy as this was our next port of call. No Charge for some 5 calls.! We booked a cabin there for a total of 3 nights. The room cost 60 dollars including tax.
We drove through Chitre, which was much larger than we thought and liked the look of it. On to Las Tablas where we parked the car and took a walk around the centre. We liked it there also and found that most things were available. Then to Pedasi and finally la Playita resort which is well sign posted. Lovely drive through the Azuero Peninsular. Green and hilly with lots of cows which the Indian type of cow used for meat. Arrived at La Playita and were met by Antonio, 2 dogs, 2 Emus, chickens and the odd macaw. Monkeys in the trees too. Antonio was very nice, showed us to our cabin and did not want us to check in formally at all! The cabin was just in front of a private beach on the Pacific. So we quickly unpacked what we needed and went to the beach in our swim wear. Weather was lovely. Hammocks on the beach, tables and chairs too. Beautiful views with a few islands dotted around. We met the only other people on the beach who were staying there. They were a very nice Brazilian couple. Poli spoke Spanish perfectly and we understood Lio who only had Portugese. Met them for lunch and we all got along very well. Got through quite a few beers during lunch too. After lunch they told us of a beach about 10 minutes walk away so we all went there. Huge beach and no one else in sight!! The water was wonderful and so warm. We swam and had some fun diving under waves to coast into the beach again. At around 6 pm we decided to go back as the sun sets around that time and the mosquitos start to emerge! Back at L Playita we asked when dinner was ready and if we could eat there. We were told that they only served up to 7 pm. So after a quick cold shower we got changed and rushed to eat! Outside on the terrace we were served Ceviche and Corvina. The cerviche is delicious ( Prawns “cooked” in lime juice with onions, herbs and chile. The Lime juice actually cooks the prawns in the fridge.) The local Corvina white fish is also delicious served with salad and patacones. (fried green banana) About 3 beers too and water. Lio and Poli then invited us to join them for a drink at the other end of the beach at a surfer bar. Alex, the chef also came with us. Nice place, good music and service with beers at 1 dollar a time. We heard a lot about Brazil and we told them a lot abut Spain. Brazil is apparently, especially Sao Paulo, a very unsafe and violent country. So they want to also go to a safe country and are looking to move to Panama. We are invited to stay with them any time we would like to.
They were leaving the next day so we said goodbye before we all went to bed as they were leaving very early. That morning we went to Pedasi and before leaving had breakfast in the hotel where we were joined by a toucan who eat out of our hand and next pinched the butter from the table!! When the two macaws appeared he moved away and they wanted breakfast with us too. Forgot to mention that we were woken up in time that morning by a howler monkey in the trees around us!
We left for Pedasi as we had to be there by 8 am to meet a local fisherman to take us by boat to La Isla Iguana. Got into the small fishing boat and it took about 30 minutes to get to the island. Big palaver for the fisherman as he has to get out of the boat and drag it for quite a way through a channel to get it on the beach as it is too shallow for the motor. On the island it was very nice with clear water and lots of Iguanas running around all the time. Lots of hermit crabs and some large red crabs too. Vultures on the beach ready for any leftover food! Could not snorkel as the tide was wrong and lots of sharp coral due to low water. On the way back the fisherman took us for a ride around the island and we saw a pair of whales too. Arrived back on beach at Pedasi at around 1 pm and sat in a makeshift bar where we had some beers and water (beers here 75c US.) Pelicans flying around too.
On the way back to the Playita we stopped for lunch and had a delicious meal of Ceviche, crackers and a couple of beers and water. Coffee too. I believe it came to about 12 dollars.
Got back to the cabin with the intention of going for a swim but saw that the water wa right onto the top of the beach with big waves. So we went for a drive to Las Cañas beach to see if it was any calmer there. No luck as the water had actually come to about halfway up the trees near the beach! Drove around to admire the wonderful scenery in the area and got back to base in time for dinner. We had salad and the grilled prawns as we love them. beers and coffee of course.
The following morning we settled the bill after loading the car with our cases and, to our surprise the two breakfasts and two dinners for the two of us including about 7 beers and the two nights stay came to 180 US Dollars!
We set off for Las Tablas and stopped to watch a procession with a band. Stopped to buy ham, juices, bread and cigarettes. Stopped the car near Divisa and ate the food in the car.
This is just before you get back on the Highway again. Just past Tole we stopped around 3 pm for a beer in a restaurant called La Isleta. Lovely place with a jetty on the river where you could rent boats. Good menu too. Back on the road and arrived in Boquete around 5 pm. We went to Villa Marita hotel to see if they had a cabin or room available. We were lucky and got a really nice cabin with small lounge area, huge bed, bathroom and wardrobe with the bonus of a really nice terrace. Hot water too!!!
Reception ordered a couple of pizzas to be delivered from the village and we ate this on the terrrace. The cost was 16 dollars for the two 10 inch pizzas.
All coffee was free in the hotel and internet is available to use at any time
. Next morning we ha a breakfast on the terrace. It rained a lot during breakfast but cleared up soon after. We were kept busy at breakfast by the tame Panamanian pheasant and two very talkative parrots!
The pheasant followed us everywhere and even sat on Miekes shoulder. Breakfast was excellent with guanabana fruit juice, (never had it before) Recommended. 10.15 am. we went to Paradise gardens, nearby. This is a refuge for saved animals and birds and run voluntnarily. Thoroughly recommended! Wonderful gardens and amazing animals and birds. Our favourite character was the toucan who followed us around.
We saw Pumas, all sorts of monkeys, Parrots and turtles etc. It was so good that although they only asked a minimum donation of 5 dollars we left 20 dollars. Well worth it and for a great cause. The whole property of 4 hectares is up for sale at 800,00 dollars but will take offers. Nice large house and the most beautiful grounds. We stayed until 1.30 pm. then headed for David. Second largest town in Panama. We walked around the bustle of David then went to the supermarket to buy some drinks and snacks. Very busy town. On the drive out we saw a TGI Fridays and could not resist!! Very nice meal and service. It was 4 pm by then (late lunch) Got back to Boquete at 6 pm. Parked the car and took a walk through the village. When we got back to the cabin we sat on the terrace and played Yahtzee and eat some huge grapes that we bought in David. The following morning it was raining when we awoke at 6.30 am. (rainy season). At 9 am. we had breakfast and got chatting to Bruce , an American looking to buy in Boquete. Very nice guy who was traveling with his daughter. Left at 11.30 and headed towards the Costa Rica border to see Puerto Armuelles. The border was hilarious, with an organized shanty town around it. Really heavy rain from the border to Puerto Armuelles. When we arrived it was dry. We looked around but were very disappointed as the place was very deteriorated and not very attractive at all. So we turned around and went back to David. Halfway we stopped and ate cheese and pitta bread that we had brought with us.
Just before David we stopped at the shopping mall to have coffee. It rained until we got to the hotel, where it was dry. Relaxed in the cabin and Bill went to the internet to catch up. 7 pm. we went to Boquete to a Mexican restaurant for dinner. (Worst meal we had ever had!!) Next day 6 am up breakfast 6.45 am then onto Volcan. Boquete to David onto Concepcion then to Volcan. Beautiful scenery and very sunny. Reminded us of Switzerland without snow. Lots of cows, horses and vegetables. Then onto Cerro Punta where at 9.30 am we arrived at our destination, Parque Nacional de la Amistad. This is a rainforest with ahuge amount of mammals, snakes etc. It rained!! We duly put on our waterproof trousers and jackets with hoods only to find that they were resistant but not waterproof!! Both got soaking wet!! They charge 5 doolars entry and 1 dollar for car parking. Gave us a map and we set off on the waterfall trail. Never made it! Got very steep and hard to climb and the rain was heavy, lot`s of mud too. Got about 2 thirds there and then turned back. Back at 1 pm. Got out of our rain gear in the car and then ate a prepared cheese sandwich. In the pouring rain back to Boquete where we arrived at our cabin at 5 pm. We were cold and wet so had a hot shower and sat on our terrace until 7 pm when we went to the reception and had a diner that we had ordered the previous day. Chicken in herbs, Salad, freshly cooked vegetables and rice. Very nice but enough for 4 !
Next morning breakfast at 8 pm. Sunny and warm. 10.30 am left Boquete and stopped in Las Lajas around 12 am for a cigarette break where it was far warmer than Boquete. 1.45 pm. Lunch at Mc Donald`s in Santiago. 9 Dollars for two big Mac menu`s. Very hot in Santiago that day. Very bad road bewteen Santiago and Penonome. we saw Along the side of the road lots of Native Indian stalls (four poles and banana leaves) where for the grand sum of 19 dollars we bought two beautiful dresses, two bracelets, three necklaces and a bracelet and matching necklace . Asking for a mirror he produce a broken piece for us! So we left 20 dollars and very happy with the purchases. t 5.30 pm. we arrived back at the Balboa Inn Where the owner Thorwald was waiting for us to get us to tell him of our trip experiences. The girls were there too and gave us a warm welcome. ( like coming home) Ordered a pizza to be delivered and ate it on the terrace with a few beers to wash it down!
Panama. Day 2.
Morning cig!!
We awoke at 6 am, showered and went down for breakfast. We decided that we would go to the Gamboa rainforest and asked Julian if he could give us a price and take us there and return later to pick us up again. He gave us a price of 60 dollars which would cover approx. 3 – 4 hours of his time. Very cheap to us. At breakfast we met an American couple who live in Boquete. They were very friendly and gave their tel. No and told us to contact them if we got to Boquete. We left for the Gamboa hike at around 9 am. after the usual delicious breakfast during which we got some nice pictures of a humming bird and other colorful birds. Julian drove us along the canal to Gamboa, the entrance to the par and told us to walk 1.5 hours up the track then 1.5 hours back where he would be waiting to pick us up. So we started out with all of our walking gear and insect spray on. It was a lovely place and we discovered that when we heard a crashing sound to stand still and quiet as there were approaching monkeys. Sure enough a whole troop moved into the trees just above us! They were howler
and the male leader showed us why they got the name! He howled and showed his teeth at us. We saw about more monkeys on the way back also. Some nice butterflies, lizards and a huge amount of unusual flowers and plants.
There were also many air plants lots of ant nests hanging from the trees. We then saw loads of leaf cutting ants, a woodpecker and a toucan.
It took us just under 3 hours in total. When we got to the entrance we waited about 10 minutes and Julian arrived. We mentioned that we had heard that there was a restaurant overlooking the river where we could see caymans. So he took us! We had a beer on the wooden terrace and threw bread at the water. The cayman arrived and swallowed rapidly. There were also many turtles in the water. We then saw on the way back a magnificent lizard about 1.5 feet long and beautifully coloured. Sadly Bill fumbled with the camera and we were too late to get a shot!
We then stopped at a petrol station for coffee and bought some empanadillas ( small pies) to take with us for lunch (and, of course some Balboa beers!) We stayed in the hotel for the rest of the afternoon as we had a meeting for dinner with a lawyer that we had contacted through a friend in Spain. Bill spent time on the computer while Mieke had a shower. We took a cab to the restaurant Viso in the city and sat on the terrace where we could smoke. Irene, the lawyer arrived and we all got on very well together. Dinner was excellent and in all with a nice bottle of Ribera del Duero crianza wine and coffees it came to 100 dollars. Very expensive for Panama but for us Europeans cheap! She was a mine of information and speaks perfect English also. She even offered her house for our use in El Valle!! So after a nice evening back to the hotel and a good night`s sleep with the air conditioning on. Were checking out the next day to start travelling and before leaving booked for another 2 nights for when we returned from our travels. It is ideally situated and easy to get to the airport from there.
The following day Julian came to take us to the local airport just a short way away to pick up a rental car (Nissan Almera) Cost for 8 days, second driver and insurance included, unlimited mileage, a total of 317,05 dollars. We then got Julian to show us the way to the bridge of the Americas (Puente de las Americas) so we could get onto the Panamerian highway and head towards El Valle. The bridge takes you straight onto the Panamanian Highway which starts off as 4 lanes and goes all the way to the Costa Rica border.
We went through Arraijan, La Chorrera, Capira, Chame and San Carlos where we took the road inland to El Valle. At Arraijan there is a police check but no problems at all. El Valle is a village built in the cater of a dead volcano and famous for the almost extinct golden frog. The climate is very fresh with little humidity, almost like eternal spring. It is used by the wealtier Panamanians as a weekend and holiday retreat with many nice houses there and spectacular scenery.
We will be detailing the area and our subsequent journey in the next post very soon.
Welcome to Panama for Brits
An initiative of long-term British expat Bill Hamilton who is now in Panama exploring his future homeland.
Bill is well known in the Malaga, Spain expat community where he lived for over 21 years running his law firm & business consultancy Interlink. With his Dutch wife Mieke he decided to look into Panama as Spain is just getting too expensive, too crowdy and much less authentic then the early days that made living in Spain so enjoyable.
This blog is his effort to document his experiences in Panama from day one and help other Brits that want to follow his trail to Panama.
The initiative started when he and Mieke were having a chat with the Dutch owner of The Balboa Inn, the Bed & breakfast where Bill and Mieke are staying when in Panama City. Thorwald has lived in Panama since 2005 when he moved there after an 18-year stay in Costa Rica. Together they figured they could help other Brits, particularly those in Spain, with unbiased advise on live and the opportunities in Panama.
So stay tuned, add us to your RSS feed and do visit Panama to check out for yourself. It’s not paradise but it surely beats Spain!
¡Hasta pronto!
Bill Hamilton & Thorwald Westmaas
